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Flsun q5 vs ender 3

Flsun q5 vs ender 3

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Double Z Motor: The printer with double Z motors, can ensure the structure is balanced and more stable could achieve higher printing precision results at a higher printing speed. Automatic leveling: With auto leveling sensor, make calibration quicker and easier, easy to use. Heated Bed: With heated bed, you can print more types filament. Powerful Supply: We provide a large power supply of 12V 30A, give the board and heated bed enough power to heat fast.

flsun q5 vs ender 3

Board With Double Fan: The board with two cooling fans keeps the board cool for high stable and long time 3D printing. Of course we only ship out perfect products. Technical Support Service Experiencing trouble? Processing Lead Time Ships in 1 to 2 Business day s.

Write a review. Your Name. Related Products. Add to Cart.Rotate image Save Cancel. Breaking news: See More. More Rules New Posts. Search this thread. Though for a first printer the Ender 3 is a better choice. I have never used a Delta before so there maybe other huge downsides that I am ignorant of, please take what I say with a grain of salt. Nearby Amazon. Got the printer delivered today, setup was about 30 minutes.

I am currently doing my first test print, so far the print quality looks good with PLA. Mine had el cheapo stepper drivers for all 4 motors. I just happened to have a set of TL smoothers laying around and I installed those, I need to do more test prints to know the effectiveness of the TL smoothers.

This is my first delta, now I see that there are a lot more frictional surfaces on a delta vs other printer geometries and the belts are super long, so there is more opportunity for play.

I do not think the way autobed leveling is implemented is good enough for a delta, I think a real auto bed leveling solution like a BL touch that runs before every print is the only good solution. The only thing that was not in the instruction manual I had to do was unscrew the bottom to set the power supply to V AC. I print mostly with HIPS filament so if this printer does a good job with HIPS filament then it is a keeper and I will do the following upgrades: -flash the control board with Marlin -Swap the stock extruder for a bondtech clone -Get 4x TMC drivers -Add BL touch, 3d touch, inductive bed level sensor -Maybe a flexible magnetic build plate.

Congrats to the Winners!The extruder hotend is one of the most important parts of a 3D printer. The hotend counts for one-half of the print head or extruder, with the cold end being the other half. In a direct drive setupthe hotend is positioned directly below the cold end; in a Bowden setup, the hotend is separate from the cold end, which is mounted somewhere on the frame.

Size-wise, the hotend is one of the smallest parts of a 3D printer, but it has a big impact on the print quality and material compatibility. Considering the number of options on the table, it can be difficult to find a hotend that best suits your needs, not to mention one that will hold up for more than just a few months.

No need to spend a significant amount of time going through dozens of products at online stores, which are filled with cheap clones. We already did that for you. The products included here are the best hotends you can get today, and that includes the extremely popular E3D V6 hotend. The extruder hotend is not just one component. Some people only consider the former three as the main components, though. The heat sink is also considered a part of the hotend.

The heater cartridge heats up the filament while the thermistor is the dedicated sensor for the hotend temperature. The nozzle is the tip of the extruder setup and has a small opening where the melted filament comes out. The heater block connects the nozzle to the heat break and holds the heater cartridge and thermistor while the heat break connects the heater block to the heat sink, serving as the bridge between the cold end and the hotend.

The nozzle comes in different sizes, with the standard being 0. The nozzle size has a direct effect on the overall print quality and print speed. A smaller nozzle can produce more detailed 3D models while a larger nozzle can print at a much faster rate. The good news is that you can easily swap out the nozzle for a different one, allowing you to adjust your setup based on your target output.

In addition to the print quality and speed, the hotend also affects the materials you can use. There are different types of filamentsand some of them can only be printed with an all-metal hotend, which can handle extremely high temperatures. There are also other factors that affect material compatibility — like the print bed type. As mentioned in the introduction, the extruder also has a cold end, which is responsible for pulling and clamping the filament and pushing it toward the hotend.

If you want to get the most out of your top-class hotend, you should pair it with an equally capable cold end. There are different hotend designs. Some hotends are modular in design, allowing you to easily change the components. Others have an all-in-one design in which the nozzle, the heater block, and the heat break are just one component. When it comes to supported 3D printers, some hotends can be mounted on almost any model currently out on the market while others can only be mounted on specific models.

If the hotend is designed for 1. Aside from the filament size, you also have to consider the voltage and whether or not the hotend has an all-metal construction. Hotends are available in either 12V or 24V, with the former being the default rating for many products on the market. Make sure the hotend you choose is in line with the power configuration of your 3D printer, for safety purposes.

As previously mentioned, some filaments can only be printed with an all-metal hotend. If you plan to print with materials that require high temperatures, such as Nylon and TPUgo for a hotend with an all-metal construction. One last thing to be mindful of when shopping for the best hotends is the sheer number of cheap clones out on the market. Seriously, there are dozens of them, the majority of which are not worth your money, much less a second look.

View on Amazon. The E3D V6 is the gold standard. The V6 is a customizable all-metal hotend built for high-temperature performance, making it an ideal hotend for advanced and exotic materials. It has a compact and modular design, with full compatibility with the entire E3D ecosystem, allowing you to easily change some of the components.

The V6 comes in a kit, which means you need to assemble it on your own.A delta 3D printer is different from the more popular Cartesian 3D printer, even though it uses the same 3D printing technology, which is fused filament fabrication or FFF.

It has a steeper learning curve and a smaller community and is more difficult to troubleshoot. Of course, a delta 3D printer has benefits, too, such as a faster print speed on average and less print bed tinkering once calibrated. Plus you can often 3D print taller items. Here are the most important things you need to know about delta 3D printers, both good and bad:. A delta 3D printer can be a pain to deal with.

While a delta kit is a bit less complicated to assemble compared to a Cartesian kit on average, the initial calibration is more difficult. The XYZ arms must be all on point because if one arm is off, it will affect the other arms, which in turn will affect the print quality.

On the bright side, a delta print bed is percent static or unmoving, unlike with a Cartesian 3D printer. When it comes to performance, a well-built and well-calibrated delta 3D printer can be better than a Cartesian 3D printer in the same class or price range.

Supported Printers

It can print faster due to the nature of its mechanical arrangement, and in a consistent manner at that. But the fun ends when it starts acting up.

One of the most frustrating aspects of a delta 3D printer is that it can be really difficult to troubleshoot. In addition, the community is a lot smaller. With a Cartesian 3D printer, you can easily find solutions to some of the most common problems on the internet. The same level of convenience is not available to owners of delta 3D printers. Considering its design, a delta 3D printer offers a different print area. It has more vertical space than your average Cartesian 3D printer, which means you can go crazy on vases.

But on the other hand, the build platform itself is more limited. A good way to determine whether or not a delta 3D printer is ideal for you is to consider the kinds of objects you want to print on a regular basis. If most of them require a lot of vertical space, then a delta 3D printer is for you. The last thing you need to take into account is the number of delta 3D printers on the market. To summarize: A delta 3D printer has a fast print speed, a taller build volume, and a stationary print bed and looks way cooler than a Cartesian 3D printer.

On the other hand, it has a steeper learning curve, comes with a smaller community, is more difficult to diagnose, and offers fewer good product options. View on Amazon. It offers a large build volume, a fast print speed, a superb print quality, and a large community. An open-structured machine, the Rostock MAX v3. It has a heated print bed, with a glass build plate out of the box.

The heated print bed means you can print with high-temperature materials like ABS while the glass build plate translates to a flatter surface. The Rostock MAX v3. A lot of users had issues with the stock hotend of the original Rostock MAX v3. SeeMeCNC addressed that and made changes to the most recent edition of the machine, equipping it with the more capable SE hotend. Combine that with its fast print speed and you get a 3D printer that offers high-resolution and high-speed prints.

An SD card option is also on the table for those who want a more traditional file transfer method, but that would require an onboard controller with a card reader, which is not included by default.

flsun q5 vs ender 3

The enclosed 5-inch touchscreen controller for the Rostock MAX v3. SeeMeCNC has excellent customer support, answering general inquiries and assembly questions in a clear, timely, and professional manner. The community, on the other hand, is beyond helpful. When it comes to performance, the Rostock MAX v3. Once you get it calibrated and tuned-up, it prints like a champ, producing print after print with little to no issues at all. It prints well in different resolution settings and with different materials, including the more advanced ones.All my prints for the past months suffered from stringing.

I finally got some time winter to play with the printer settings and found out the right balance. I used some glue stick and it worked fine for adhesion, no other treatments. Raft: 15mm margin, 0. For thin parts, I use the same raft settings as above. Basically, except for temperature I don't adjust any other settings when changing materials.

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Support and rafts are activated when needed. I haven't tried threads yet with the new setting, that's still something that needs to be tweaked.

It does not pause at this tho. Anyone else that can verify if the M works or not on their machine? Manually pause bya the lcd works. It's just not as acurate as i dont know exact where it changes layers. Hey everyone! Just a quick question, any help would be greatly appreciated. I've had some issues with getting a good first layer sticking to the bed, it will usually start printing the outline then end up dragging it behind it or something as it goes.

I've done multiple bed levels with the auto leveling feature as well as made manual adjustments to the level through the settings. Nothing has seemed to work. Any suggestions?

flsun q5 vs ender 3

Espero os sirva de ayuda. Forums Things Members About. General Topics Recent Topics Finally got the settings dialed in - no more stringing by brainwash All my prints for the past months suffered from stringing. Rough settings: no support, minimize retractions, 0.

Last Post: October 1, Created: February 20, Last Post: September 28, MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies, allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features. All my prints for the past months suffered from stringing.

I finally got some time winter to play with the printer settings and found out the right balance. I used some glue stick and it worked fine for adhesion, no other treatments.

Raft: 15mm margin, 0. For thin parts, I use the same raft settings as above. Basically, except for temperature I don't adjust any other settings when changing materials. Support and rafts are activated when needed. I haven't tried threads yet with the new setting, that's still something that needs to be tweaked. It does not pause at this tho. Anyone else that can verify if the M works or not on their machine?

Manually pause bya the lcd works. It's just not as acurate as i dont know exact where it changes layers. Hey everyone! Just a quick question, any help would be greatly appreciated. I've had some issues with getting a good first layer sticking to the bed, it will usually start printing the outline then end up dragging it behind it or something as it goes.

I've done multiple bed levels with the auto leveling feature as well as made manual adjustments to the level through the settings. Nothing has seemed to work. Any suggestions? Espero os sirva de ayuda. Every time it retracts it beeps loudly. At first I thought it was the beeper on the main board, but realised it was in fact the extruder. I dismantled and lubricated it and for a very brief time it was better, but it soon went back to its noisy operation. So, I replaced it with an old Ender 3 extruder and the problem has gone away.

The print quality is still good so I would recommend this fix to anyone suffering from a similar problem. I set the rate to and it seems to be fine. Note that auto level and setting the Z offset will need to be redone when the system has updated. Hey guys, how are you? I have problems with my FLSUN QQ-S ,I can't get it to print well, the symptom is that in some areas it prints in the air very far from the bed and in other parts too close and that causes plastic not to come out.

I have tried to level automatically, manually, update the firmware, I don't know what else to do. I hope you can help me thank you very much! Download Now. Back Explore. Finally got the settings dialed in - no more stringing by brainwash All my prints for the past months suffered from stringing. Rough settings: no support, minimize retractions, 0. Last Post: October 1, Created: February 20, Last Post: September 28, Created: September 28, Work for a high-tech company in Silicon Valley, a humanitarian organization in New York City, a global pharmaceutical company in Europe, or a business consultancy in India.

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